Late January 2025, the renovated Grand Palais pulsed with the rhythm of the CHANEL Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 show. A doubly symbolic moment, I find: not only celebrating the house’s 110 years in this supreme art form that is Haute Couture, but also a collection born in the interim, designed by the in-house studio while awaiting the highly publicized arrival of Matthieu Blazy.
An Ode to Color, A Forgotten Signature?
The stated intention was clear: to pay homage to Gabrielle Chanel, not just for her iconic black and white, but as a true « great colorist ». A welcome exploration, reminding us of the richness of her palette, from the softest pastel to the most vivid tone. The scenography, with that double-C runway evoking infinity, struck me as a powerful metaphor: a link between this deep heritage and the house’s promise of eternity.
The Collection: Between Savoir-Faire and Reinterpretation
On the runway, I observed a revisiting of the fundamentals. Tweed, of course, but vibrant with new colors, sometimes painted or embroidered with undeniable mastery. The silhouettes played on contrasts: the structure of the suit (sometimes daringly paired with low-waisted mini-skirts) against the ethereal fluidity of long dresses in chiffon, crepe, or lace. This is where the art of the ateliers truly shines: fine embroideries, airy pleats, graphic braids, and those jewel-buttons that are genuine miniature sculptures. A veritable catalogue of CHANEL savoir-faire.
A Mixed Reception: Art Confronts Impatience
As often happens in our world, opinions diverged. While the specialized press largely praised the chromatic beauty and artisanal excellence, a more critical eye was cast elsewhere, particularly online. Some pointed to a lack of boldness, a style sometimes deemed « dated, » or even repetitiveness in certain styling choices – that famous thin black belt that caused so much discussion. This divide strikes me: it reveals, I believe, the constant tension between celebrating a precious heritage, the very essence of Haute Couture, and the feverish expectation of novelty, exacerbated by our times.
By Way of Conclusion
For me, this Spring/Summer 2025 collection will remain a beautiful demonstration of the resilience and richness of the CHANEL codes, carried by the virtuosity of its ateliers. A colorful and masterful interlude that successfully maintained the house’s radiance during a period of anticipation. Now, all eyes are turned towards Matthieu Blazy, and the impatience is great to discover how he will inscribe his own vision into the history of this « eighth art » at CHANEL.
Crédit photo: FHCM.
