Juana Martin: Andalusian Fervor Juana Martin isn’t showing a collection.She’s celebrating a memory. Black and white dominate.An absolute contrast, like a prayer. Semana Santa runs through her fabrics.Processions, fervor, ruán:sacred symbols become couture. Each silhouette carries a weight.That of Andalusia,that of an identity that refuses to be forgotten. Here, fashion is not a distraction.It’s a …
Franck Sorbier gives nothing away.He doesn’t follow the times: he confronts them. His El Dorado isn’t a promise.It’s a critique.A mirror held up to modern illusions:artificial intelligence, cryptocurrencies, space exploration. Faced with the mirage, he opposes matter.Faced with the virtual, he imposes his hand.Conquistadors and Incas confront each other in his fabrics. Each embroidery is …
Stéphane Rolland doesn’t parade: he composes.Each dress is a score.Each movement, a sustained note. Ravel as a backdrop.Ida Rubinstein as an apparition.Music becomes volume,the garment becomes sculpture. Deep blacks.Incandescent reds.The stage is a dramatic architecture. For Rolland, Couture is not a garment.It’s a theater.A geometry of breath. Everything rises, everything ignites.A Bolero, but in fabric.A …
In Paris, Dior didn’t present a fashion show.But he showed more: the power of silence. Absence is not a void.It’s a statement.A language without embellishment. Jonathan Anderson now brings all the lines together.A rare gesture.For the first time since Christian Dior himself,a single designer embodies the whole. No dispersion.A single voice.A complete face. This silence …
On July 8, Chanel didn’t show: she meditated. A studio, a bow. Willo Perron designed an intimate, unfussy decor. Everything was held in restraint. No break.A breath of continuity.Tweed, wheat, the freedom of the female body:so many signs placed like offerings. It wasn’t a demonstration.It was a passage.The discreet song of a house awaiting its …
Haute Couture is not a set. It is a naked demand.It survives only through excellence.And excellence, today, is faltering. Artistic directors succeed one another like lightning.Heritage faces disruption.Craftsmanship resists industry.Silence responds to overkill.Haute Couture has become a barometer of the world. Chanel offered a swan song.A chiaroscuro studio.Willo Perron created an intimate setting.A gesture of …
From Brancusi to Baker: where spirit and structure meet Paris, January 28, 2025 — Within the sacred rhythm of Haute Couture Week, Stéphane Rolland unveiled a collection entitled Origines. From Brancusi to Baker — a dialogue between two symbolic forces: the free and sensual energy of Josephine Baker, and the abstract, sculptural purity of Constantin …
On my site, « Haute Couture: the eighth art, » I love to decipher those moments when fashion transcends clothing to touch the artistic. Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled « Portrait of a Dream », is precisely one of those magical instances. What Saab offers us here is a total immersion in an « Impressionist garden. » I …
Late January 2025, the renovated Grand Palais pulsed with the rhythm of the CHANEL Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 show. A doubly symbolic moment, I find: not only celebrating the house’s 110 years in this supreme art form that is Haute Couture, but also a collection born in the interim, designed by the in-house studio while …
Paris, late January. Haute Couture Week is in full swing, and all eyes are on Dior. On January 27th , Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her vision for Spring/Summer 2025, a collection conceived as a deep dive into « sartorial memory. » Far from a simple retrospective, the ambition was to create a dialogue between eras, to « disrupt …
